Is Reykjavik Worth Visiting? Honest Pros and Cons (2026)
Reykjavik is the only capital I’ve been to where I could soak in a steaming hot tub in the morning, watch a whale roll past a boat at lunch and still make it back for dinner. I spent four days there one spring, and I filled them with geothermal water, windy waterfront walks and a lot of lamb soup.
Reykjavik is the capital of Iceland, and it’s the northernmost capital of a sovereign state in the world. You’ll find a bright, compact old town, a striking church on the hill, a glass concert hall on the harbour and some of the most dramatic nature in Europe within a couple of hours’ drive. It’s also expensive, windy and unpredictable. Reykjavik is worth visiting if you want nature, hot water and a relaxed city base, and you can handle the prices.
Below, I break down the highlights worth the trip and the drawbacks worth planning around. You’ll also find the best areas for a base, the tours I’d book, when to go, how many days to allow and how to get around. By the end, you’ll know if Reykjavik is the right fit for you.
Pros of Visiting Reykjavik
1. Northern Lights Hunting
Few places make the aurora as easy to chase as Reykjavik. The season runs from September to mid-April, and you can leave the city lights behind in under 30 minutes. You need a dark, clear night, and the lights depend on solar activity. Even without a good show, the quiet countryside under a sky full of stars is worth the trip. I’d allow several nights, because cloud cover can ruin any single evening. Dress in layers, because standing still in the cold for an hour feels much colder than the forecast.
A guided tour takes the stress out of it. The Northern Lights bus tour lasts four hours and includes hot chocolate, a guide and photo stops. If the lights don’t show, you get a free follow-up tour. For a smaller group, the small-group premium tour uses a minibus and comes with refreshments and a three-year open ticket for a free retry.
2. Geothermal Pools and Lagoons
Iceland’s hot water is the best thing about it, and you can soak almost anywhere. The Blue Lagoon is the famous one, with milky blue water set in a black lava field about 45 minutes from the city. The Sky Lagoon is closer, on the edge of the sea in Kópavogur. Its seven-step ritual moves between the lagoon, a cold plunge, a sauna, a cold mist, a body scrub and a steam room, and it ends with a taste of crowberries.
For a local experience, try the city swimming pools. Laugardalslaug, Sundhöllin and Vesturbæjarlaug all have hot tubs, and an adult swim costs 1,500 krónur (£9). Icelanders gather in the hot pots every evening to chat. Shower without your swimsuit before you get in, as locals take that rule seriously. The Blue Lagoon Comfort admission includes a towel, a drink and a silica mud mask.
3. Hallgrímskirkja
Hallgrímskirkja is the symbol of Reykjavik, and you can see it from almost everywhere in the city. The concrete church rises 73 metres above the hill, and its stepped sides are meant to echo the basalt columns found in Icelandic lava. The inside is plain and bright, with a huge organ at the back. A statue of Leifur Eiríksson, the explorer who reached North America, stands out front.
The best part is the tower. A lift takes you up to the viewing platform, where you get a sweeping view over the red, blue and yellow roofs, the harbour and Mount Esja. It’s one of the best views in the city. Go early or late to avoid queues. The walk up Skólavörðustígur is half the fun, because the street is lined with art shops, cafés and a rainbow painted on the road that leads straight to the church doors.
4. Harpa and the Waterfront
The waterfront is where Reykjavik feels most alive. Harpa is the glass concert hall on the harbour, and its honeycomb facade shimmers with changing colour. You can walk in and look around for free, and the foyer has cafés and big windows. Concerts and guided tours run through the year. The foyer is a good spot to warm up with a coffee and watch the harbour from the big windows. A short walk along the shore brings you to the Sun Voyager, a steel sculpture of a Viking ship, which looks best at sunrise or sunset.
I walked this stretch most evenings. Farther west, the Grandi district has converted fishing warehouses with cafés and small museums. The Flyover Iceland experience is here, and it’s a 35-minute flying theatre that sends you over glaciers and volcanoes. It’s a good rainy-day option, and a seasonal shuttle runs from downtown.
5. Whale and Puffin Watching
Reykjavik is one of the easiest places in Europe to see whales. The boats leave from the Old Harbour and head into Faxaflói Bay, where minke whales, white-beaked dolphins and harbour porpoises are common, and humpbacks turn up often. The whale watching cruise lasts about three hours, and the boat has heated indoor cabins, WiFi and a café. Dress warmly, because the wind off the sea is cold. Sea conditions vary, so check the forecast and book a morning slot if you get seasick easily.
From mid-April to August, puffins nest on the small islands just off the coast. The puffin watching boat tour takes an hour from the Old Harbour and comes with binoculars on board. It’s the quickest wildlife trip you can do, and it fits easily between a lunch and a museum visit. The birds are tiny and surprisingly funny up close.
6. Icelandic Food
Icelandic food is more than the fermented shark you hear about. The classic cheap meal is a hot dog from Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur, the stand near the harbour, with crispy onions and sweet mustard, which costs about 700 krónur (£4). Try lamb soup in a bread bowl, fresh cod and haddock, skyr (the thick local yoghurt) and rye bread baked in the ground by hot springs. A main course in a restaurant costs about 5,000 krónur (£29).
A guided taste is the easiest way to cover it all. The Reykjavik food walking tour lasts three hours and starts at the main entrance of Harpa. You visit five eateries and try six to eight local dishes, with a local guide telling stories along the way. Book it early in your stay, so you can return to your favourite spots. Most restaurants also offer vegetarian options, and fish and chips is a safe bet for fussy eaters.
7. Perlan and Museums
Perlan sits on a hill south of the centre, and its glass dome rests on top of six old hot water tanks. Perlan is a nature museum with a man-made ice cave, a glacier exhibition, a volcano show and a planetarium that screens a Northern Lights film. The observation deck wraps around the dome and gives you a full 360-degree view of the city. The exhibitions are open from 9 am to 9 pm, so you can fit it in at any time of day. The Perlan Wonders of Iceland ticket is valid for about two hours.
For the story of Iceland’s settlers, visit the Saga Museum in Grandi. Life-size waxworks show scenes from the Viking age, from the first settlers to the arrival of Christianity. The Saga Museum ticket comes with an audio guide in seven languages and takes about 35 minutes. Both are good picks for a grey, windy afternoon.
8. Colourful Streets and Street Art
Reykjavik’s old town is full of colour. Houses are clad in painted corrugated iron, with bright reds, blues, yellows and greens that stand out against the grey sky. The streets between Laugavegur, Skólavörðustígur and Hverfisgata are packed with independent shops, bookshops, cafés and design stores. Murals cover the sides of many buildings, and new ones appear every year. I loved wandering without a plan and finding a new mural around each corner. Souvenir shops sell wool jumpers, known as lopapeysa, which are warm and genuinely useful.
Tjörnin, the small lake beside City Hall, is a lovely place for a break, with ducks and geese in the water. If you’d like a guide, the Reykjavik city walking tour lasts about 2.5 hours and starts at the statue of Ingólfur Arnarson on Arnarhóll. It covers about three kilometres, and you taste Icelandic schnapps, dried fish and local sweets along the way.
9. A Safe and Walkable Capital
Reykjavik is one of the safest capitals in the world, and it’s easy to relax here. Violent crime is rare, and you can walk home late without worrying. Almost everything in the centre is within a 20-minute walk, from Harpa to Hallgrímskirkja and from the Old Harbour to Tjörnin. Locals are friendly, and almost everyone speaks excellent English. That makes it a good choice for solo travellers and first-time visitors. Hotels and tour companies are used to helping first-timers, so you rarely feel lost.
The city is small, so you won’t spend your trip on transport. On my trip, I walked nearly everywhere and used the bus only for the airport. The evenings are lively too, with plenty of bars, live music and small restaurants around Laugavegur. Many pubs have a happy hour, which helps with the prices. Just remember that the city can feel very quiet on a Sunday morning.
10. Day Trips from the City
Reykjavik is the perfect base for exploring southern Iceland. The Golden Circle is the classic day trip. It takes in Þingvellir National Park, where Iceland’s parliament met from around 930 and where the North American and Eurasian plates drift apart, the Geysir area and the huge Gullfoss waterfall. The Golden Circle full-day tour lasts 7 to 8.5 hours and adds a stop at Kerid Crater.
The South Coast is the other big option. You get two giant waterfalls, Seljalandsfoss and Skógafoss, a black sand beach at Reynisfjara and a walk to the snout of the Sólheimajökull glacier. The South Coast tour takes 10 hours and includes a lunch stop in Vík. Both days are long but rewarding, so bring layers and snacks. Start early to beat the tour buses. Many tours pick up from your hotel, which saves the stress of finding the right bus stop.
Cons of Visiting Reykjavik
1. High Prices
Iceland is one of the most expensive countries in Europe, and Reykjavik is no exception. A pint of beer costs about 1,800 krónur (£11), a restaurant main costs around 5,000 krónur (£29) and tours are pricey. Hotels fill up fast in busy months, and the price of even a basic room can shock first-time visitors. Alcohol is heavily taxed and sold in state shops with limited opening hours.
You can keep costs down with a few simple habits. Eat hot dogs and bakery lunches, and book a room with a kitchen. The tap water is excellent, so carry a bottle. Look out for happy hour deals, which can halve the price of a pint. The Reykjavik City Card costs 6,100 krónur (£36) for 24 hours and includes buses, 8 swimming pools and 17 museums. Reykjavik is still worth it.
2. Changeable Weather
The weather in Reykjavik can change in minutes. You might get sun, a hailstorm and a gale in a single afternoon, and the wind is a constant companion. Spring temperatures hover around freezing to the mid-single digits °C. Storms can close roads and cancel tours, and heavy rain can spoil a day on the coast. Forecasts are rarely reliable more than a day ahead.
Pack layers and a waterproof shell, and wear sturdy shoes. A warm hat and gloves are useful even in spring. Keep a rainy-day plan, such as Perlan, a museum or a swimming pool. Book your big tours early in the trip so you have spare days to reschedule. Locals have a saying that if you don’t like the weather, you should wait five minutes. The city is still worth it.
3. Northern Lights Aren’t Guaranteed
The aurora is the reason many people book a trip, but it’s never guaranteed. You need a dark sky, a clear night and enough solar activity. Cloud cover is common, and a week of grey weather can wipe out every attempt. The season also has an end date. By mid-April, the nights are too short and bright for a good chance of seeing them.
Plan your trip between September and March, and allow at least four nights. Check the aurora forecast and cloud map each afternoon, and go out on the clearest night. A guided tour is a good bet, because the guides chase clear skies. The Northern Lights bus tour offers a free follow-up if you miss the lights. There’s plenty to enjoy, so Reykjavik is still worth it.
4. Limited Public Transport
Public transport in Reykjavik is basic. The city has no metro or trams, and the Strætó buses run less often in the evenings and on Sundays. Most of Iceland’s best sights lie well outside the city, and buses can’t take you there. Waterfalls, black sand beaches and national parks need a tour or your own transport. Taxis are expensive, and Uber doesn’t operate in Iceland.
The city centre is small, so you can walk to most places. For everything outside it, a guided day tour with hotel pickup is the easiest option. The South Coast tour leaves from a bus stop at Höfðatorg, and pickups from listed hotels are available. For short hops in town, the bus and the City Card are easy to use. It takes a little planning, but Reykjavik is still worth it.
5. Busy Tourist Sites
Iceland’s main attractions get crowded. The Blue Lagoon is booked in time slots and sells out days ahead in busy months. Gullfoss, Geysir and Skógafoss all draw tour buses, and the car parks can be full by mid-morning. Hallgrímskirkja’s tower and Harpa get busy at midday, and the streets around Laugavegur feel packed on summer evenings.
Book your tickets as soon as you know your dates, and pick the earliest or latest slot. The Blue Lagoon only lets you in during a one-hour window from your booked time, so arrive early. Many of the best moments come away from the crowds, such as the harbour at sunrise or a quiet local pool. Weekdays are generally calmer than weekends. Go early, and Reykjavik is still worth it.
Where to Stay
City Centre and Laugavegur: I stayed near the city centre for four days, and I’d do it again. You step out into shops, cafés, bars and restaurants, with Harpa, Tjörnin and Hallgrímskirkja all within a 15-minute walk, and the tour pickups and bus stops are close by. The downsides are the weekend noise on Laugavegur and the higher prices, so ask for a quiet room at the back. On a budget, Loft – HI Eco Hostel sits on Bankastræti and has a bar, a terrace and a shared kitchen. Center Hotels Laugavegur is a mid-range 4-star with a restaurant and a bar, and Hotel Borg by Keahotels is the upscale pick, just off Austurvöllur square with a spa, a sauna and a hot tub.
Hallgrímskirkja and Þingholt: Þingholt is the quiet residential area around the church, with colourful houses along the lanes and a village feel. Skólavörðustígur’s shops and cafés are a short walk away, and Laugavegur is five minutes downhill. It’s calm at night, but the streets are steep and there are fewer places to eat on your doorstep. Alfred’s Studios on Frakkastígur is the budget option, with soundproof rooms and free WiFi. Thingholt Hotel Apartments from Center Hotels is a mid-range 4-star with a terrace and family rooms, and Hotel Ódinsvé is an upscale 4-star steps from the church, with a restaurant and a bar.
Old Harbour and Harpa: This is the best base for wildlife and food lovers, because the whale and puffin boats leave from the dock and Harpa and the Sun Voyager are a short walk along the shore. You also get seafood restaurants, cafés and the Grandi warehouses. It’s a little windier than the centre and quieter at night, and Laugavegur is a 10 to 15-minute walk away. Day Dream Vesturgata 17 Reykjavik is a budget guesthouse with a terrace and a shared kitchen. Center Hotels Arnarhvoll is a mid-range 4-star close to Harpa, with a spa, a sauna and a hot tub, and Exeter Hotel is an upscale 4-star on Tryggvagata with a restaurant, a sauna and a steam room.
Laugardalur: Laugardalur is the green valley east of the centre, and it suits families and budget travellers. The big Laugardalslaug swimming complex, the botanical garden and the Reykjavik Zoo and Family Park are all here, and hotels cost less and parking is easier. The centre is about 4 kilometres away, so evenings out mean a bus or a taxi. It’s a calmer base, but a less atmospheric one. Dalur – HI Eco Hostel sits next to Laugardalslaug and has a bar, a garden and a shared kitchen. Nordurey Hotel City Garden is a mid-range 3-star with soundproof rooms and free parking, and Reykjavik Lights Hotel by Keahotels is a higher-end 3-star on Suðurlandsbraut with a bar, a terrace and free parking.
Best Things to Do
Reykjavik has a mix of city sights and big nature trips. These are the experiences I’d put on a shortlist.
- Golden Circle full-day tour: A 7 to 8.5-hour day trip to Þingvellir National Park, the Geysir area and Gullfoss waterfall, with a stop at Kerid Crater. Pickup is available from Reykjavik.
- South Coast waterfalls and glacier tour: A 10-hour day that stops at Skógafoss, Sólheimajökull glacier, Reynisfjara black sand beach and Seljalandsfoss, with lunch in Vík. You meet at Tour Bus Stop 12 at Höfðatorg, or you can arrange hotel pickup.
- Northern Lights bus tour: A four-hour evening trip with a guide, photo stops and hot chocolate. You get a free follow-up tour if the lights don’t appear.
- Whale watching cruise: A three-hour cruise in Faxaflói Bay with heated indoor cabins, WiFi and a café on board. You check in at Old Harbour House, 30 minutes before departure.
- Puffin watching boat tour: A one-hour boat trip from the Old Harbour to the puffin islands. Binoculars are on board, and you meet at the Special Tours office.
- Blue Lagoon Comfort admission: A ticket with a towel, a drink at the swim-up bar and a silica mud mask. It also gives you access to the sauna, steam cave and quiet zone.
- Reykjavik food walking tour: A three-hour walk with a local guide and five eateries. You taste six to eight local dishes, and the tour starts at the main entrance of Harpa.
- Reykjavik city walking tour: A 2.5-hour, three-kilometre walk through the old town, Tjörnin and Hallgrímskirkja. You taste Icelandic schnapps, dried fish and local sweets, and you start at Arnarhóll.
- Perlan Wonders of Iceland ticket: A two-hour visit to Iceland’s largest museum, with a man-made ice cave, a volcano show and a Northern Lights planetarium film.
- Flyover Iceland experience: A 35-minute flying theatre in the Grandi district. A seasonal shuttle runs from downtown, and the ticket gives you a timed entry.
- Saga Museum ticket: A 35-minute audio-guided tour of waxwork scenes from Viking-age Iceland. It’s at Grandagarður 2, and audio guides come in seven languages.
Best Time to Visit
Spring (March to May): My trip was in spring, and Reykjavik felt like it was waking up. Days get longer fast, and temperatures sit around freezing to the mid-single digits °C, with wind and the odd snow shower. The Northern Lights season ends in mid-April, and puffins arrive around the same time. Whale watching works well, and hotels cost less than in summer. Pack a warm jacket and waterproofs.
Summer (June to August): Summer is the most popular season, with highs of 10 to 15 °C and almost endless daylight. In June, the sun barely sets, so you can hike and sightsee at midnight. It’s the best time for puffins, the Golden Circle and the South Coast. It’s also the busiest and priciest season, so book hotels and tours early.
Autumn (September to November): Autumn brings golden colours and the return of the Northern Lights from September. Crowds thin out, prices drop and the weather turns stormy by November. It’s a good season for a mix of aurora chasing and city breaks.
Winter (December to February): Winter is dark, with only about four to five hours of daylight in December. It’s also the best time for the aurora, ice caves and cosy evenings in hot tubs. Temperatures hover around freezing, but storms can close roads. Christmas lights and festive markets make the city feel magical.
How Long to Spend
1-2 Days: With one or two days, you can cover the city highlights. Walk up to Hallgrímskirkja, stroll along the waterfront to Harpa and the Sun Voyager, and soak in a local pool. A guided city walking tour is the easiest way to fit it all in.
3-4 Days: This is the ideal length, and it’s what I did, with four days. You have time for the city, a Golden Circle or South Coast day trip, a lagoon and a whale or puffin cruise. If you’re visiting in the right season, add a Northern Lights tour. It’s also relaxed enough for long café stops.
5-7 Days: With a week, you can see more of Iceland. Add both big day trips, a second lagoon visit and the Perlan museum. If you want to see more of the country, Akureyri, Húsavík, Vík and Höfn are all worth a visit. Húsavík is known for whale watching, and Vík for its black sand beach.
Getting Around
On foot: Central Reykjavik is compact, and walking is the best way to see it. Hallgrímskirkja, Laugavegur, Tjörnin, Harpa and the Old Harbour are all within about 20 minutes of each other. I walked nearly everywhere. Wear waterproof shoes with good grip, because the pavements can be icy in cold months. The wind can be strong, so wear a windproof jacket.
Bike hire: Cycling is a good choice in the warmer months, with paths along the waterfront. Shared e-scooters and e-bikes from Hopp are available around the city, and you unlock them with an app. The hills and wind can slow you down, so use them for flat stretches.
Buses: The Strætó bus network covers the capital area, and you pay through the Klapp ticketing system. There’s no metro or tram, so the bus is your only public transport. The Reykjavik City Card costs 6,100 krónur (£36) for 24 hours, 8,500 krónur (£50) for 48 hours and 10,500 krónur (£62) for 72 hours. It covers unlimited Strætó buses, 8 swimming pools, 17 museums and the ferry to Viðey Island. It doesn’t cover bus 55 to the airport.
Taxis and ride-hailing: Taxis are expensive, and Uber doesn’t operate in Iceland. They’re handy late at night or in bad weather. Order one by phone or through a local taxi app, and ask for a price before long rides.
To and from the airport: Keflavík Airport (KEF) is about 45 minutes from the city by road. The Flybus runs to the BSÍ bus terminal and costs 3,999 krónur (£24). The shared airport bus transfer runs to the BSÍ terminal or central Reykjavik. For a door-to-door ride, a private airport transfer takes about 45 minutes, with flight tracking and a driver holding a name sign. For the way back, line up the same type of transfer for your departure, or take the Flybus.
So, is Reykjavik Worth Visiting?
Yes, and it’s one of the most memorable capitals in Europe. Reykjavik gives you hot lagoons, whales, waterfalls, a colourful old town and a landscape unlike anywhere else. It’s small and safe, and you can walk it in a day. I left wanting to see more of the island.
It isn’t perfect. Prices are high, the weather is unpredictable, the Northern Lights aren’t guaranteed and public transport is basic. Popular sites also get crowded. Each of these has a simple workaround, so none of them should put you off.
Reykjavik is best for nature lovers, couples and solo travellers who like a relaxed base. If you want geothermal water and big scenery, it’s worth the cost. Pick your season, book your big tours early and pack layers, and you’ll have a trip to remember.
