Introduction
Croatia has quickly become one of Europe’s most popular travel destinations, and Split is a city that seems to divide opinions among visitors. On one hand, it’s a bustling hub on the Dalmatian coast, full of history, stunning beaches, and a gateway to the surrounding islands. On the other hand, some argue it’s overcrowded and overly commercialised during peak season. So, is Split worth visiting? In this guide, we’ll take a deep dive into the city’s highs and lows, highlighting its incredible attractions and some of the pitfalls you should be aware of before you visit. Whether you’re planning a sun-soaked holiday or a cultural adventure, this post will give you the lowdown on Croatia’s second-largest city.
Table of Contents
Pros – Reasons You Should Visit Split
1. Diocletian’s Palace
Let’s start with Split’s most famous feature: Diocletian’s Palace. This UNESCO World Heritage site isn’t just an old ruin—it’s a living, breathing part of the city. Built by Roman Emperor Diocletian in the 4th century, the palace complex is a maze of narrow alleys, bustling squares, and ancient stone buildings. Shops, cafes, and homes are still integrated into the palace walls, making it one of the most unique historical sites you’ll ever explore.
Walking through Diocletian’s Palace feels like stepping into a different era. One moment, you’re admiring ancient Roman columns; the next, you’re sipping a coffee in a lively square filled with street musicians. I recommend going early in the morning or late in the evening to avoid the heaviest crowds. If you’re a history buff, consider taking a guided tour to truly appreciate the palace’s rich past.
2. Stunning Beaches
Split boasts some fantastic beaches that are perfect for a lazy day in the sun. Bačvice Beach is the most famous, a sandy stretch popular with both locals and tourists. It’s a lively spot where people play picigin, a traditional ball game that’s fascinating to watch. For something quieter, head to Kašjuni Beach or Trstenik Beach, which are a bit more relaxed but equally beautiful.
I spent an afternoon lounging at Kašjuni Beach, a pebble paradise surrounded by pine trees. The water was crystal clear, perfect for a refreshing swim. If you’re not a fan of sand, the rocky beaches still offer a comfortable spot to lay down your towel. Just be sure to pack water shoes if you’re planning on venturing into the sea, as the pebbles can be tough on your feet.
3. Island Hopping Opportunities
One of Split’s biggest draws is its proximity to some of Croatia’s most beautiful islands. You can hop on a ferry and visit Hvar, known for its glamorous nightlife, or Brač, home to the famous Zlatni Rat beach. Other islands like Šolta and Vis are more off the beaten path and offer a more laid-back, authentic Croatian experience.
I took a day trip to Hvar, and it was one of the highlights of my visit. The ferry ride itself was enjoyable, with views of the turquoise waters and distant islands. Once in Hvar, I explored charming stone streets, had an incredible seafood lunch, and even found a hidden beach for a bit of peace and quiet. If you’re short on time, there are also organised boat tours that hit multiple islands in one day.
4. Delicious Dalmatian Cuisine
Split is a paradise for food lovers, offering a mouthwatering array of Dalmatian cuisine. You can’t visit without trying peka, a slow-cooked dish made under an iron bell, or black risotto, made from cuttlefish ink. The city’s Riva promenade is lined with restaurants, but for a more authentic experience, venture into the alleys of the Old Town, where local konobas (taverns) serve traditional fare.
One of my best meals in Split was at a tiny konoba, where I had grilled fish so fresh it practically melted in my mouth. The waiter recommended a local white wine that paired perfectly with the meal. If you’re a fan of seafood, you’ll be in heaven, but even meat-lovers and vegetarians have plenty of options. Don’t forget to save room for fritule, mini Croatian doughnuts often served with powdered sugar.
5. Scenic Views from Marjan Hill
For those who love a bit of adventure, Marjan Hill offers breathtaking panoramic views of Split and the surrounding Adriatic Sea. The hill is a green oasis, perfect for hiking or cycling, with several viewpoints that are worth the climb. It’s also dotted with small chapels and shaded picnic spots, making it an excellent escape from the bustling city below.
I woke up early one morning to hike up Marjan Hill, and the sunrise over the sea was spectacular. The trail isn’t too difficult, and there are plenty of benches where you can catch your breath and enjoy the scenery. If hiking isn’t your thing, you can also rent a bike or even take a leisurely walk. Just be sure to bring water and a hat if you’re visiting in the summer, as it can get quite hot.
6. Lively Riva Promenade
The Riva promenade is the beating heart of Split, a wide, sun-drenched waterfront lined with palm trees, cafes, and shops. It’s the perfect place to people-watch, enjoy a drink, or take a leisurely stroll. By day, it’s a bustling hub of activity; by night, it transforms into a lively social scene where both locals and tourists come to unwind.
I spent a few evenings on the Riva, enjoying the cool sea breeze and watching street performers entertain the crowds. It’s a fantastic spot to grab a cocktail or an ice cream and soak up the atmosphere. For a bit of luxury, try one of the rooftop bars overlooking the promenade. If you’re into photography, the Riva also offers some stunning sunset shots.
7. Rich History and Heritage
Beyond Diocletian’s Palace, Split is a city steeped in history. The Cathedral of Saint Domnius, originally built as Diocletian’s mausoleum, is one of the oldest Catholic cathedrals still in use. The Archaeological Museum and Ethnographic Museum provide further insights into the city’s past, from Roman times to more recent history.
Exploring the Ethnographic Museum gave me a deeper appreciation for the city’s cultural heritage. It’s fascinating to see how Split has evolved over the centuries, blending Roman, Venetian, and Croatian influences. Even if museums aren’t usually your thing, the Cathedral and its bell tower are worth a visit—just be prepared for a steep climb and narrow stairways if you go up the tower.
8. Vibrant Nightlife
When the sun goes down, Split comes alive with a vibrant nightlife scene. From beach bars to nightclubs, there’s something for everyone. The area around Bačvice Beach is famous for its party atmosphere, while the Old Town offers a mix of relaxed wine bars and trendy cocktail lounges. Whether you’re looking to dance the night away or enjoy a quiet drink, Split has you covered.
One night, I found myself at a bar overlooking the sea, sipping a mojito and listening to a local band play. The vibe was laid-back and fun, and I ended up chatting with a group of fellow travellers until the early hours. If you’re up for a big night out, places like Central the Club are popular, but if you prefer something more relaxed, there are plenty of options too.
9. Festivals and Events
Split hosts a variety of festivals and events throughout the year that add an extra layer of excitement to any visit. The Split Summer Festival brings theatre, opera, and music performances to various open-air venues around the city. Then there’s Ultra Europe, one of the world’s biggest electronic music festivals, which attracts thousands of partygoers every July.
I happened to visit during the Split Summer Festival, and it was magical to watch a Shakespeare play performed in an ancient courtyard. The atmosphere was electric, and it felt like the whole city had turned into a stage. If you’re flexible with your dates, try to time your visit with one of these events—you won’t regret it.
10. Friendly Locals
One of the things that make Split so memorable is the warmth and friendliness of its locals. Croatians are known for their hospitality, and you’ll often find people going out of their way to help you or share a story. Whether you’re chatting with a market vendor or getting recommendations from a bartender, you’ll feel genuinely welcomed.
I got lost one afternoon trying to find a restaurant, and a local woman not only gave me directions but walked me halfway there to make sure I didn’t miss it. The people here are proud of their city and love sharing it with visitors. Don’t be shy about striking up a conversation—you might just learn something new or get a great tip for exploring the city.
Cons – Things to Consider When Visiting Split
1. Overcrowding in Peak Season
Split can get extremely crowded during the summer months, especially in July and August. The narrow streets of the Old Town become packed with tourists, and finding a spot at popular beaches can be nearly impossible. If you’re not a fan of large crowds, this could make your visit less enjoyable.
I visited Split in mid-July, and the sheer number of people was overwhelming at times. Queues for restaurants were long, and even getting a good photo of Diocletian’s Palace without a dozen people in the background felt impossible. If you prefer a more relaxed experience, consider visiting in May, June, or September, when the weather is still great but the crowds have thinned out.
2. Expensive During High Season
With popularity comes higher prices. During peak season, accommodation rates in Split can skyrocket, and even budget-friendly options become scarce. Dining out and activities like island-hopping tours also get more expensive, which can put a dent in your travel budget.
I struggled to find affordable lodging during my visit in August, and last-minute bookings were almost non-existent. If you’re travelling on a budget, it’s crucial to plan ahead. Booking well in advance can save you money, and staying in a nearby town and commuting into Split is another way to cut costs.
3. Limited Parking
If you’re driving to Split or planning to rent a car, be aware that parking is a challenge. The city’s historic centre is a pedestrian-only zone, and parking spots around the Old Town are limited and often expensive. Finding a spot can be a stressful experience, especially during peak season.
I rented a car for a day trip and ended up circling for what felt like an eternity before finally finding a parking spot a good 15-minute walk from the city centre. If you’re planning to drive, consider using public car parks on the outskirts and taking a bus or walking into the city. Alternatively, rely on Split’s excellent public transport system to avoid the hassle altogether.
4. Noise and Party Scene
Split’s vibrant nightlife can be a blessing and a curse. If you’re looking to relax, the noise from beach bars and late-night parties might disturb your peace. Bačvice Beach, in particular, is known for its loud and lively atmosphere, which can be less appealing if you’re hoping for a quiet evening.
One night, I stayed in an apartment near the Riva, and the noise from revellers kept me up until the early hours. If you’re a light sleeper or not a fan of loud parties, consider staying in a quieter neighbourhood or looking for accommodation further from the centre. Earplugs can also be a lifesaver if you’re sensitive to noise.
5. Rocky Beaches
While Split does have some beautiful beaches, many of them are pebbly rather than sandy. This can make lounging and walking along the shore less comfortable, especially if you’re not used to rocky terrain. Water shoes are highly recommended, and beachgoers often bring cushioned mats for extra comfort.
I learned this the hard way when I tried to walk barefoot on a rocky beach and ended up wincing with every step. If you’re set on sandy beaches, you might be a bit disappointed. However, once you’re in the water, the crystal-clear sea more than makes up for it. Just be prepared with the right gear, and you’ll still have a fantastic time.
When to Visit Split
The best times to visit Split are late spring (May to early June) and early autumn (September to October). During these shoulder seasons, you’ll find warm weather perfect for beach days, fewer crowds, and the city’s lively atmosphere still buzzing. Summer (July and August) is peak season, and while the city comes alive with tourists and events like the Split Summer Festival, it can get hot and crowded, with prices to match. In winter, Split is quiet and mild, offering a peaceful pace and an ideal time to explore Diocletian’s Palace and the local culture without the crowds, though swimming might be too chilly for most.
How to Get to Split
Split Airport (SPU), located about 24 kilometres from the city centre, is the main gateway to Split. It’s well-served by airlines like Croatia Airlines, easyJet, and Lufthansa, with seasonal flights connecting Split to most major European cities. From the airport, you can take the Croatia Airlines shuttle bus or a local bus to the main bus station, which is conveniently located near the Old Town. Taxis and ride-hailing services are also available, though pricier. If you’re arriving from other cities in Croatia, the train or bus network offers direct connections, while ferries connect Split to several Adriatic islands and coastal cities like Dubrovnik and Hvar.
Where to Stay in Split
Split offers a range of accommodation options across different neighbourhoods, each with its own appeal:
- Luxury: Old Town / Diocletian’s Palace – Stay in the heart of Split’s historic centre, surrounded by ancient walls and cobbled streets. Hotel Vestibul Palace and Heritage Hotel Antique both offer luxurious stays steeped in history.
- Mid-range: Bacvice – Known for its sandy beach and relaxed atmosphere, Bacvice is a short walk from the centre and offers easy access to swimming spots and beachside cafes. Try Hotel Luxe or Hotel Park for comfortable stays close to the beach.
- Budget: Veli Varoš – A charming neighbourhood filled with traditional stone houses and just a few minutes from the Old Town, Veli Varoš has affordable options like Hostel Split and Guest House Maris that offer both character and convenience.
Getting Around Split
Split is a very walkable city, especially within the Old Town and along the Riva promenade, where most attractions are within easy reach. For longer trips, Promet Split buses connect the main areas, including Bacvice, Marjan Hill, and the port, with affordable tickets that can be bought on board. While Split doesn’t yet have an official bike-sharing scheme, plenty of rental shops around the Old Town and the waterfront offer bikes for the day, a great option if you want to explore Marjan Hill. The Split Ferry Port also makes island-hopping easy, with regular ferries to nearby islands like Brač, Hvar, and Vis.
How Long to Spend in Split
Three days is ideal to experience Split’s main highlights, from wandering Diocletian’s Palace and enjoying the Riva promenade to relaxing on Bacvice Beach and sampling local seafood. With an extra day, consider a boat trip to nearby islands like Brač or Hvar for a taste of island life. If you have more time, take a day trip to Klis Fortress or the Cetina River for canyoning and outdoor adventure. Split also makes a great base for exploring the Dalmatian Coast, so consider adding a few more days if you’re keen to experience the region’s diverse landscapes and cultural sites.
Conclusion
So, is Split worth visiting? Absolutely—but it comes with some caveats. If you love a mix of history, stunning beaches, and a lively atmosphere, you’ll find plenty to enjoy in this Croatian gem. However, the crowds, high prices in peak season, and the party scene might not be for everyone. The key is to know what to expect and plan accordingly. Visit in the shoulder seasons if you can, come prepared for rocky beaches, and take advantage of Split’s incredible day trip opportunities. Whether you’re here for the culture, the coast, or the cuisine, Split is a city that leaves a lasting impression.