Is Zagreb Worth Visiting? Pros, Cons and Travel Tips (2026)

Pros of Visiting Zagreb

1. Upper Town and St Mark’s Church

Gornji Grad, the Upper Town, is the medieval heart of Zagreb, and it’s the first place I’d send anyone. It sits on a hill above the main square, with cobbled lanes, gas street lamps and baroque palaces. The star is St Mark’s Church, whose tiled roof shows the coats of arms of Croatia, Dalmatia, Slavonia and Zagreb. The Croatian Parliament and government offices stand on the same square, so it’s photogenic and surprisingly peaceful. Look at the colourful roof from a distance first, then step closer to see the detail.

Everything up here is a short stroll apart, and you can cover the lot in a morning. I wandered without a plan and kept stumbling on small galleries, courtyards and viewpoints. Go early, before the tour groups arrive. For the stories behind the grand houses, the Upper Town palaces tour lasts an hour and focuses on the noble families of Gradec Hill.

2. Lotrščak Tower, the Noon Cannon and the Funicular

The Lotrščak Tower is a 13th-century watchtower on the edge of the Upper Town. Every day at noon, a cannon fires from the top, a tradition that dates back to 1877. Locals set their watches by it, and it still makes first-timers jump. You can climb the tower for a view across the red roofs to the cathedral spires, and it’s one of the best viewpoints in the city for golden sunset photos.

The easiest way up from the Lower Town is the funicular. At just 66 metres long, it’s one of the shortest in the world, and the ride takes about a minute. It’s the quirkiest bit of transport I’ve used in Europe. Walking back down through the Stone Gate is just as nice. The city walking tour with WWII tunnels lasts two and a half hours and includes the funicular and the Grič Tunnel.

3. Dolac Market

Dolac is Zagreb’s main open-air market, and it has been the city’s kitchen since 1930. It sits just above Ban Jelačić Square, with rows of red umbrellas over stalls of fruit, vegetables, honey, flowers and cured meats. Farmers come in from the villages around the city, and the produce changes with the seasons. Underneath, a covered hall sells fresh meat, fish and dairy. Go in the morning for the best choice, because the good stalls thin out by lunchtime.

I came here for a picnic. I bought bread, a wedge of fresh cheese, cream and a bag of strawberries, then ate it all on the steps beside the square. Look out for sir i vrhnje, a soft fresh cheese served with cream, which is a Zagreb classic. It’s cheap, it’s friendly and it shows you how locals really shop. Bring a little cash, because some stalls don’t take cards.

4. Museum of Broken Relationships

This is the museum people talk about long after the trip, and it’s the reason many visitors come to Zagreb. The Museum of Broken Relationships started as a small art project here in Zagreb and now tours the world. It displays everyday objects donated by people after a breakup, each with a short note about the story behind it. Some are funny, some are sad, and a few are both at once. It’s small, so it never feels overwhelming.

The home is a baroque palace in the Upper Town, open daily, and a ticket costs €9, and you can buy it at the door too. I spent a little over an hour inside and was surprised how moving it was. Read every label, because the stories are the point. Visit around opening time or late in the evening to avoid the queues. A skip-the-line ticket saves the wait in busy months.

5. Zagreb Cathedral

The Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary is the symbol of Zagreb. Its twin neo-Gothic spires rise to over 100 metres, which makes them the tallest church towers in Croatia, and you can see them from almost anywhere in the centre. The building stands in Kaptol, the old church quarter, and its roots go back to the 11th century. Inside, you’ll find vaulted ceilings, stained glass and the tomb of Cardinal Stepinac. Entry is free, but dress modestly.

I came back to the cathedral several times, mostly because it sits between the Dolac market and the Upper Town. It looks best in the late afternoon, when the stone turns golden. Stand on Kaptol square to take it all in, then walk the old walls and towers behind the building. The cathedral is still being restored, but the interior stays open, so it’s well worth a look.

6. Café Culture and Špica

Zagrebians take coffee seriously. The city has one of the strongest café cultures I’ve seen, and sitting on a terrace is a proper activity here, not a quick stop. Tkalčićeva Street is lined with cafés and bars in old townhouses, and Bogovićeva Street and Flower Square (Cvjetni trg) are just as busy. On Saturday mornings, locals dress up and meet for a long coffee, a ritual known as špica.

I tried to copy them and failed, because they sit for hours and I kept wanting to move on. Order a kava (a short coffee) and a glass of water, and settle in. A coffee costs just a couple of euros, and nobody rushes you. It’s a cheap way to feel like a local. Sunday mornings are slower, so it’s a good time to watch the city wake up. If you’d like a more playful stop, the Museum of Hangovers is a fun, quirky detour.

7. Štrukli and Zagreb Food

Zagreb’s food is hearty and comforting, and it leans towards Central Europe rather than the Mediterranean. The dish to try is štrukli, a pastry filled with fresh cheese and cream, either baked until golden or boiled. It’s the city’s signature. Another favourite is Zagreb steak (zagrebački odrezak), a breaded veal cutlet stuffed with ham and cheese. For something lighter, try purger, a rich soup, or a plate of local cheeses and cured meats. It’s rich, so share a plate if you want to try several dishes.

Craft beer is also growing here, with small bars serving local brews alongside the usual lagers. I ate štrukli in the Upper Town on my first evening and went back for more the next day. Small family-run restaurants are usually better than the busy terraces. If you’d like a guide, the CroBites culinary walk lasts three hours and includes six tastings.

8. Mirogoj Cemetery

It might sound strange to call a cemetery a highlight, but Mirogoj is one of the most beautiful in Europe. It opened in 1876, and the architect Hermann Bollé designed the long arcades and green domes. The grounds are filled with ivy, sculptures and ornate tombs, and many famous Croatian writers, artists and politicians are buried here. Entry is free, and the opening hours run from early morning until evening.

It feels more like a quiet park than a place of mourning. I walked slowly along the arcades and read the names carved into the stone. The sculptures are works of art in their own right, and the light through the arches is lovely in the morning. It’s a short bus ride from Kaptol, so it fits easily into half a day. Go on a weekday morning for the most peace. Be respectful, because it’s still a working cemetery.

9. Medvednica and Medvedgrad

Mount Medvednica rises right behind the city, and its highest point, Sljeme, reaches about 1,035 metres. It’s the green lung of Zagreb, and locals head up at the weekend to walk, cycle and eat in the mountain huts. The Medvednica Nature Park has marked trails for every level, and you can get there on city transport. The views from the ridge reach across the whole city on a clear day. Pack water and a light jacket, because it’s cooler up on the ridge.

My favourite stop was Medvedgrad, a medieval castle that has watched over Zagreb for around eight centuries. The walk up through the forest is easy, and the terrace gives you a great view back over the city. Wear proper shoes, because paths can be muddy after rain. In winter, there’s skiing when the snow is good, so it’s a rare capital where you can hike or ski before dinner.

10. Easy Day Trips to Plitvice, Samobor and Slovenia

Zagreb is a great base for day trips. The big one is Plitvice Lakes National Park, which is about two hours away by road. Its sixteen turquoise lakes are linked by waterfalls and wooden boardwalks, and it’s the most famous sight in inland Croatia. The Plitvice Lakes and Rastoke day trip lasts nine to ten hours and includes your ticket. Go early, because the boardwalks fill with tour groups by late morning.

Closer to the city, Samobor is a pretty small town known for its cream cake, kremšnita, and it’s an easy bus ride away. Further afield, you can reach Slovenia in a day. The Ljubljana and Lake Bled tour is an eleven-hour small-group trip, so it’s long but rewarding. Both tours leave from the centre of Zagreb. Tours save you the hassle of buses and timetables. I’d recommend at least one day trip if you have more than two days.

Cons of Visiting Zagreb

1. Scaffolding and Earthquake Damage

Zagreb was hit by a strong earthquake in 2020, and repairs are still going on years later. Many buildings in the Upper Town and the centre were damaged, and you’ll see cranes, cracked facades and netting here and there. The cathedral restoration has dragged on for years and is expected to continue towards 2030, so parts of the building are often hidden behind scaffolding. It can spoil a photo if you’re hoping for a clean shot.

It’s an annoyance rather than a deal-breaker. Most of the sights stay open, and the Upper Town still looks wonderful. If a perfect view matters to you, check recent photos before you go. Try the angle from the Lotrščak Tower, which lets you frame the spires from a distance. The scaffolding is also a reminder that the city is still rebuilding, and the restoration work is part of Zagreb’s story right now.

2. Hills and Cobbles in the Upper Town

The Upper Town is beautiful, but it’s steep. The lanes are narrow and cobbled, and many are slippery after rain. Getting up from the Lower Town means stairs or the funicular, and there are staircases between streets. It isn’t a big problem if you’re fit, but it can be tiring after a full day on your feet. Visitors with pushchairs or limited mobility will find it harder.

Wear shoes with proper grip and leave the heels at home. Take the funicular up and walk down, which saves your legs. Staying in the Upper Town itself means you’re right there for the morning, but you’ll climb every evening. Taxis and buses can help if the hills get too much. Once you’re up there, the area is compact and mostly flat, so the hardest part is getting started.

3. Quiet in August and Some Closures

Zagreb can feel half empty in summer. Many locals head for the coast in July and August, and some small restaurants, bars and shops close for a few weeks. The city stays open, and the big sights run as normal, but the buzz of the café terraces fades. It can also be hot, so the lack of shade in some squares feels harsh in the afternoon.

If you want the city at its liveliest, avoid mid-August. Spring and autumn are better, with full terraces and mild weather. Check opening hours for smaller restaurants before you plan a special dinner, as many close one day a week. Summer isn’t a bad time to go, though. The parks and Jarun Lake are lovely, and the evenings stay long, but you’ll need to plan around the quieter days.

4. No Sea or Beach

Zagreb is inland, and that surprises some visitors who picture Croatia as all beaches and islands. The nearest coast is about two hours away by road, and the classic beach towns are further. If swimming and sunbathing are a big part of your plan, Zagreb won’t deliver them. You’ll also miss the island-hopping and seafood that make the Dalmatian coast famous.

A few things help. Jarun Lake is a city beach spot with swimming and cafés, and it’s a popular summer escape for locals. You can also pair Zagreb with the coast. Zadar and Split are a few hours away by bus, and Dubrovnik is further south. I’d treat Zagreb as a city break and the coast as a separate trip. That way, you get the best of both without expecting the capital to be something it isn’t.

5. Pricey Terraces on Tkalčićeva

Tkalčićeva Street is the best-known place to eat and drink, and it has the tourist prices to match. The terraces are pretty, but the menus lean towards the average, and prices have crept up since Croatia adopted the euro. A coffee or a beer costs noticeably more than it does a few streets away. On busy evenings, the service can be slow, and some places push you towards the tourist menu.

The fix is easy. Walk one or two streets off the main strip, and you’ll find better food at lower prices. Dolac Market is great for cheap lunches, and the small bars around Flower Square feel more local. Have a drink on Tkalčićeva for the atmosphere, then eat elsewhere. It’s a small downside, and a little planning avoids it.

Best Time to Visit

Spring (March to May): This is when I went, and it’s a great time for Zagreb. Highs climb from around 13°C in March to the low 20s by May. The parks bloom, the café terraces fill and the crowds stay small. Pack a light waterproof, because showers pass through often.

Summer (June to August): Summer is warm, with highs of around 28°C in July and August. The days are long, and Jarun Lake is a popular escape from the heat. The city can feel quiet in August, when many locals go to the coast. Start early, because the afternoons get hot.

Autumn (September to November): Autumn is excellent. September is still warm, with highs around 23°C, and the leaves in the parks turn gold. By November, it drops to around 10°C. It’s a good time for food tours and day trips, with fewer visitors.

Winter (December to February): Winter is cold, with highs of around 4°C and the occasional snow. The big draw is Advent in Zagreb, which runs from late November into early January. Around 25 markets spread across the city, and the ice rink in King Tomislav Square is a highlight. It was voted Europe’s best Christmas market three years in a row. Book your hotel early, because December fills up.

How Long to Spend

1-2 Days: This is enough for the highlights. Start in the Upper Town with St Mark’s Church and the Lotrščak Tower, ride the funicular, then browse Dolac Market and visit the Museum of Broken Relationships. Finish with a walk to the cathedral and dinner on Tkalčićeva Street. I spent three days in Zagreb, and that felt about right. I used the third day for Mirogoj and a slow wander through the parks.

3-4 Days: This gives you time to slow down. Add a food tour, a bike tour and one or two of the smaller museums, such as the Meštrović Atelier or the Tesla museum. You can also hike up Medvednica and visit the Medvedgrad castle. Maksimir Park is worth an afternoon too. It has lakes, woodland and the city zoo, and a birdwatching tour with a zoo visit is one way to see it. With a spare day, take a day trip to Samobor.

5-7 Days: This is plenty of time to treat Zagreb as a base for the region. You could add Plitvice Lakes, Ljubljana and Lake Bled, and a few quiet days in the parks. It’s more than most visitors need, but it suits anyone who wants to see inland Croatia without changing hotels. If you’re travelling on to the coast, Zagreb also makes a good first stop before Zadar, Split or Dubrovnik.

Getting Around

On foot: The centre is compact, and walking is the best way to see it. Most of the main sights, including Ban Jelačić Square, the Upper Town and Dolac Market, are within 20 minutes of each other. The Upper Town is hilly, so wear comfortable shoes.

Trams and buses: ZET runs the trams and buses, and the blue trams are the easiest way to cover longer distances. The funicular is part of the same network. If you plan to see a lot of museums, the Zagreb Card covers ZET transport and entry to nine attractions, including the Museum of Broken Relationships and the Tesla museum.

Bike hire: The city’s BAJS bike-share system makes it easy to hire a bike for short rides. The centre is mostly flat, and Maksimir Park and Jarun Lake are lovely by bike. The Upper Town is the exception, so leave that to your legs.

Taxis and ride-hailing: Bolt and Uber both work in Zagreb, and they show a fixed price before you book. Short rides in the centre are cheap. Taxis are a good option late at night or after a day in the hills.

To and from the airport: Zagreb Airport is about 17 km south of the centre. The Pleso Prijevoz shuttle runs to the main bus station every 30 minutes, and the ride takes 35 to 40 minutes. ZET bus line 290 is the cheaper option, though it takes 45 to 50 minutes. If you’d rather have a driver waiting, a private airport transfer takes you straight to your hotel. Another option is a private transfer with a meet-and-greet. Line up your journey back the day before, so you aren’t hunting for a ride on your last morning.

So, is Zagreb Worth Visiting?

Zagreb is a great city break, and it surprised me. It has a medieval Upper Town, a lively market, quirky museums, a strong café culture and a mountain on the doorstep. It’s full of charming details, from a noon cannon to the shortest funicular around. It suits history lovers, food fans and anyone who wants a capital with personality and without the crowds.

It isn’t perfect. The scaffolding can spoil a view, the Upper Town is steep, August is quiet, there’s no sea and Tkalčićeva is pricey. None of that put me off. A good season, a base in the centre and a short walk off the main strip solve most of it, and the day trips make a short stay feel full.

If you’re still deciding, book three days and go in spring or autumn. Start in the Upper Town, ride the funicular, spend an hour at the Museum of Broken Relationships, and finish with štrukli and a long coffee on Tkalčićeva. I’d be surprised if you left wishing you’d skipped Zagreb.