Introduction
Just 15 minutes by train from Amsterdam, Haarlem is often overlooked in favour of its famous neighbour. But this charming Dutch city offers a unique blend of history, culture, and modern charm that makes it a fantastic destination in its own right. Known as the “City of Flowers” for its tulip-growing legacy, Haarlem is also a haven for art lovers, foodies, and anyone looking for a slower-paced alternative to Amsterdam’s hustle and bustle. So, is Haarlem worth visiting? In this blog post, we’ll explore the pros and cons of spending time in this delightful city to help you decide if it deserves a spot on your travel itinerary.
Table of Contents
Pros – Reasons You Should Visit Haarlem
1. Rich History and Stunning Architecture
Haarlem is one of the oldest cities in the Netherlands, with a history that dates back over 900 years. The city’s architecture reflects its rich past, with gabled houses, cobblestone streets, and medieval churches at every turn.
Walking through Haarlem felt like stepping into a storybook. The Grote Markt, the city’s main square, is particularly impressive, surrounded by beautiful buildings like the St. Bavokerk (St. Bavo’s Church) and the City Hall. I spent a morning wandering through the square, marvelling at the intricate facades and soaking up the lively atmosphere of the weekly market.
2. St. Bavo’s Church
The St. Bavokerk, a Gothic masterpiece that dominates Haarlem’s skyline, is a must-visit for anyone interested in history or architecture. Inside, you’ll find soaring vaulted ceilings, stunning stained glass, and one of the most famous organs in the world.
The organ, played by Mozart as a child, is a marvel of craftsmanship. Standing beneath it, I could almost hear the echoes of centuries-old music filling the vast space. The church often hosts concerts, so check the schedule—you might catch a performance in this spectacular setting.
3. World-Class Museums
Haarlem punches well above its weight when it comes to museums, with several world-class institutions located within the city. The Frans Hals Museum is a highlight, showcasing works by the city’s most famous Golden Age painter.
I was particularly taken with the museum’s layout, which combines historic art with contemporary pieces to create a dynamic and engaging experience. For a more eclectic collection, the Teylers Museum, the oldest museum in the Netherlands, is a fascinating mix of art, science, and history housed in an atmospheric 18th-century building.
4. Quaint Canals
Haarlem’s canals may not be as famous as Amsterdam’s, but they’re every bit as charming. Smaller and less crowded, they offer a peaceful way to explore the city.
I took a canal cruise that wound through the heart of Haarlem, passing under picturesque bridges and alongside flower-filled houseboats. If you prefer to go at your own pace, renting a bike and cycling along the canals is another fantastic way to take in the scenery.
5. Vibrant Food Scene
Haarlem is a foodie’s paradise, with a wide range of restaurants, cafes, and markets offering everything from traditional Dutch fare to international cuisine. The Jopenkerk, a former church turned brewery, is a must-visit for beer lovers.
I had dinner at De Lachende Javaan, a cosy Indonesian restaurant that served some of the best rendang I’ve ever tasted. For a quick bite, the local markets and bakeries are perfect for picking up stroopwafels, fresh herring, or flaky pastries.
6. Flower Fields and Keukenhof Proximity
Haarlem’s location makes it an excellent base for exploring the famous Dutch flower fields and the Keukenhof Gardens, particularly during spring.
I visited in April when the tulips were in full bloom, and the fields surrounding Haarlem were a riot of colour. Renting a bike to explore the flower fields was one of the highlights of my trip, and the Keukenhof Gardens, just a short drive away, were spectacular.
7. Relaxed Atmosphere
Unlike Amsterdam, Haarlem has a much more relaxed and intimate feel. The city is less crowded, making it a perfect choice for travellers looking to slow down and soak in the local vibe.
I loved sitting at a canal-side cafe, sipping coffee and watching locals go about their day. The pace here is unhurried, and you’ll find yourself drawn into the city’s quiet charm without feeling overwhelmed.
8. Ideal for Shopping
Haarlem is home to some of the best shopping in the Netherlands, with its Golden Streets offering a mix of boutique stores, vintage shops, and high-end brands.
I spent an afternoon exploring these charming streets, picking up unique souvenirs and gifts. The city’s independent bookstores and art shops were particularly delightful, offering a refreshing alternative to cookie-cutter chain stores.
9. Proximity to the North Sea Beaches
Just a short train ride or bike ride from Haarlem are the beautiful beaches of Zandvoort and Bloemendaal aan Zee. These North Sea gems are perfect for a day of sun, sand, and sea.
I visited Zandvoort on a warm spring day and loved the laid-back beach bars and gentle waves. If you’re visiting in summer, the beaches can be lively and vibrant, offering a perfect escape from the city.
10. Excellent Transport Links
Haarlem’s central location and excellent transport connections make it incredibly easy to reach. It’s just 15 minutes by train from Amsterdam, with direct connections to Schiphol Airport and other Dutch cities.
The ease of travel made Haarlem a no-brainer for me. Even if you’re staying in Amsterdam, it’s simple to plan a day trip to Haarlem and explore its highlights without the hassle of long travel times.
Cons – Things to Consider When Visiting Haarlem
1. Smaller Scale
Haarlem is a compact city, and some visitors may find that it doesn’t have enough to fill more than a day or two.
I stayed for two days and felt I had seen most of the major sights, though the relaxed pace meant I could truly enjoy each experience. Pairing Haarlem with nearby destinations like Amsterdam or the beach can make for a more varied itinerary.
2. Limited Nightlife
If you’re looking for a city with vibrant nightlife, Haarlem might fall short. While it has a handful of lively bars and pubs, it doesn’t have the same late-night energy as Amsterdam.
I enjoyed a quiet evening at the Jopenkerk brewery, but if you’re after clubs and large-scale events, you’ll likely need to head into Amsterdam for a night out.
3. Crowds During Flower Season
While Haarlem is generally less crowded than Amsterdam, its proximity to the flower fields and Keukenhof means it can get busy during the spring season.
I visited in April and found that while the city itself was manageable, trains and roads to the flower fields were quite crowded. Booking tickets and accommodation early is essential if you’re travelling during this peak time.
4. Rainy Weather
Like much of the Netherlands, Haarlem’s weather can be unpredictable, with rain showers common throughout the year.
I encountered a few drizzly afternoons but found that the city’s cafes and museums provided plenty of indoor options. Packing a waterproof jacket and comfortable shoes is a must for making the most of your trip.
5. Less Iconic Than Amsterdam
Haarlem lacks the instantly recognisable landmarks and global fame of Amsterdam, which may disappoint travellers looking for a “bucket list” destination.
That said, I found Haarlem’s understated charm to be one of its biggest draws. It’s ideal for those who prefer a more authentic and less touristy Dutch experience.
When to Visit Haarlem
The best times to visit Haarlem are spring (April to June) and early autumn (September to October). Spring is particularly magical, with blooming tulip fields and the nearby Keukenhof Gardens showcasing the region’s floral beauty. Early autumn offers mild weather and fewer crowds, making it perfect for exploring Haarlem’s charming streets and cultural attractions. Summer (July and August) is lively, with outdoor cafes bustling and events like the Haarlem Jazz Festival filling the city with energy. Winters in Haarlem are cosy, with festive lights and the city’s charming Christmas markets creating a magical atmosphere.
How to Get to Haarlem
The nearest airport to Haarlem is Amsterdam Schiphol Airport (AMS), just 20 kilometres away. From Schiphol, direct trains to Haarlem Central Station run frequently and take about 15 minutes. Alternatively, buses and taxis provide quick connections. Haarlem is also well-connected to Amsterdam and other Dutch cities via train, with regular services making it a convenient day trip or stopover. For those driving, Haarlem is easily accessible by car, but parking in the city centre can be limited.
Where to Stay in Haarlem
Haarlem offers a range of accommodation options, from luxury boutique hotels to budget-friendly stays:
- Luxury: City Centre – Stay near Grote Markt for easy access to landmarks like the St. Bavo Church. Options include Boutiquehotel Staats and Hotel ML, both offering upscale comfort with historic charm.
- Mid-range: Spaarnwoude – A quieter area near the scenic Spaarne River. Consider Hotel Lion d’Or or Ambassador City Centre Hotel, which balance affordability with great amenities.
- Budget: Train Station Area – Affordable stays like Hello I’m Local Hostel or smaller guesthouses provide excellent value for travellers wanting easy access to transport and the city centre.
Getting Around Haarlem
Haarlem is compact and walkable, with most attractions, including Grote Markt, the Frans Hals Museum, and the St. Bavo Church, within easy walking distance. For exploring further afield, the Connexxion bus and train networks offer efficient public transport options, with day passes available for budget-friendly travel. Cycling is one of the best ways to see Haarlem and its surroundings, with bike rentals widely available and scenic routes leading to nearby beaches or tulip fields. Canal tours are another enjoyable way to experience Haarlem from the water.
How Long to Spend in Haarlem
Two days is ideal for experiencing Haarlem’s highlights, including the Grote Markt, Frans Hals Museum, and the charming streets of the city centre. This timeframe allows time to explore the city’s boutique shops, sample local cuisine, and take a canal tour. With an extra day, consider visiting the nearby Keukenhof Gardens (in spring), biking to the Zandvoort Beach, or exploring the Teylers Museum, one of the oldest museums in the Netherlands. Haarlem’s combination of history, culture, and proximity to nature makes it a delightful destination for a short and enriching trip.
Conclusion
So, is Haarlem worth visiting? Absolutely. With its rich history, charming canals, and relaxed atmosphere, Haarlem offers a delightful alternative to the hustle and bustle of Amsterdam. Whether you’re admiring the masterpieces at the Frans Hals Museum, exploring the flower fields, or simply enjoying a leisurely meal by the canal, Haarlem is a city that rewards those who take the time to visit. While it may not have the same global recognition as Amsterdam, its authenticity and charm make it a must-visit destination for anyone looking to experience the best of the Netherlands.